It is nearly two in the morning, and I type from my warm, soft bed in Prague. I arrived around 1:30 pm and was met by a driver who took me directly to the hotel. The drive into town suggests a Prague of innocence and beauty; you don’t immediately notice the impact of two communist eras as you wind down the cobblestoned highway lined with plants and flowers. Tall spires rise up, arched bridges. I fell in love almost instantly.